Week 9: Izzy and Woods Hole

Day 57: Izzy!

Saturday, May 4th

18.8 miles today

604 miles total

May the fourth be with you and happy birthday Rob. Even with the snoring last night I was able to fall asleep. Of course we had cake for breakfast along with toast and homemade jams, the peach was probably my the best.

The owners took us back to the trail head and we drove through the countryside while ‘there goes my life’ by Kenny Chesney played on the radio. I tried to text Izzy and everyone else for the short time I had service. It’s funny I was worried some crazy people might try and find my location based on my blogs but honestly it’s been harder to coordinate with people even with telling them my location.

We got our picture taken and they posted it up on the bear garden hostel facebook page. All of us who hiked a marathon for a freakin cake, but it was good. Today was sooo easy compared to yesterday. I feel like after yesterday nothing will be as hard, at least for now. It was so flat and easy walking today we all took our time. We walked around the bends and fold of the mountain and it felt like I was walking in circles it all looked the same.

Just before we crossed I-77 we stopped for a snack and the guy I “stole” the beer from was there so it was a little awkward but he was chill. There was a little pavilion we had some food but I saved the bulk of my lunch for a few miles farther. Before going down over the bridge that crossed the highway there was an incredible view of the low clouds over the mountains.

I found a nice little campsite with a good rock to sit on and had my little tuna packet with quinoa and the rest of my snacks. Not long after Joe caught up with me and then we reached the 600 mile marker! Wow it just don’t even phase me at this point. We’ve gone 144 miles in 7 days and crossed over 2 100 mile markers. It’s been flying by. It just feels like another number.

Then it started to downpour. I didn’t even have time to put on my rain jacket before I was soaked. So we just hiked the last 4 miles in the rain and were just drenched by the time we got to the shelter. It was full but only one guy was sleeping there, tink, goose and MJ were just having food there. But all their wet stuff was in the shelter dripping everywhere and mud and dirt all over the place. We just sat there and waited for them to finish and leave so we could setup our stuff. Jitterbug got there and right before we setup bibo got there. He wasn’t happy with how dirty the shelter was either. Everyone was kinda in a mood today.

Then my friend Izzy showed up! It’s like she just appeared and it was like she had been here the whole time it was great. She setup inside the shelter with us and I had her hang our bear bag and filter water with me and she fit right in with the other hikers. We made dinner and I was a little jealous of her jet boil that boiled the water in like 30 seconds. But my Cuban rice bowl meal tasted way better than her French onion ramen. We also all checked the forecast and  saw it was gonna rain all week, bummer. But the guys decided to call and reserve a bunk for tomorrow instead of going to the Shelter which would make it one 22 mile day instead of doing 15 and 7. I wasn’t sure if Izzy would want to do that so I waited to decide until she got there but she was game so I called and reserved the bunks for one more night. Too bad she came here to hike and we’ll only hike for one day and then be in the hostel until Wednesday haha. But neither of us care about what happens and I’m looking forward to this hostel it’s supposed to be cool.

Day 58: So Easy but So Hard

Sunday, May 5th (happy cinco de Mayo)

21.8 miles today (+0.6, +0.4)

625.8 miles total

Going to sleep with light rain tapping on the metal roofing of the shelter is one of the best things to fall asleep too. I woke up before the alarms went off but laid my head down for a few more moments anyway. I was proud of Izzy for breaking down her stuff and eating breakfast before we even packed  our wet stuff. Everyone was also just so impressed with how cool she is being a lobster fisherman from Maine. I think she earned everyone’s respect as she seemed to fit right in to the hiker crowd. As we packed up the older gentleman Kia was talking to Izzy about a car but I couldn’t make out the conversation. I asked about it and he was asking if he could borrow Izzy’s car to take to pearisburg and stay at the hostel. She was like sure about it at first then was like hmm maybe not but then after exchanging contacts and trust she gave him the keys and he gave us some candy.

We got out of camp fairly early and once we started talking I knew this was probably gonna be one of the easiest days on trail not so much because of the terrain but because I have someone I can talk to without having to get to know them. It’s great meeting new people but that comfort of a friend you’ve know for longer than a couple weeks is something I didn’t immediately think I’d miss so much. Pair that with someone who could give a lesser fuck how the day goes or what happens and you have the perfect hiking partner.

Thinking back the day felt so long but I wish it lasted longer. You forget how good things are until they’re gone but in this case i forgot how much I missed my friends until I got them back. I can help but think about having to say goodbye again and all the things I’ve missed since I’ve been away. That’s been the hardest part. No amount of miles or elevation gain is going to be harder than thinking about all the time I could be spending with the people I love. I feel so lucky to have people like my parents and Izzy and anyone else that’s able to come out and give me some of that time back. My friend chuck told me “friends are worth more than gold” and to me they’re food for the soul.

We stopped at dismal fall today and if the sun was out and it was hotter I would’ve been the first to jump in. Instead we sat there and admired the falls all to our own. Spence caught up to us and I jokingly told him he had to solve a riddle to pass us and it took him so long to figure it out we all ended up talking and hiking together for a while before Joe blew passed us. The riddle was “what room has no windows and no doors” the answer is at the end.

We got to a pond with some fish and newts and watch them float in crystal clear water and thought of how nice it is to feel weightless in the water. Just a little bit farther made it to the shelter for lunch, the one we were originally going to stop at for today. We met loner there, fittingly by himself. He was heading sobo and over a couple years only had 300 more miles until he’d hiked the whole thing. He told us about his hiking experience while we ate the hodgepodge of food in our bags. Will and bibo showed up right before we left.

It was a bit of a climb getting out there, which was about 1,500 ft in a couple miles after we’d hiked 15 miles. I was proud of Izzy even though she felt bad for having to take a couple breaks. I don’t know if I couldn’t hike that pace my first day doing that many miles without complaining one bit. It did rain on us a little bit but we got up there at the perfect time because the clouds parted and the view of a Virginia valley were immaculate. We stopped at a couple rock out croppings and then one on top of Sugar Run Mountain that was the best. It was so good I forgot to take a picture.

When we finally made it to the hostel we got claps from the guys sitting on the porch and walked up the gravel driveway to one of the best hostels I’ve ever seen. Big pastures to the left, cozy wood cabin buildings, raised bed gardens, this place was so beautiful. We got checked in and Izzy and I found loaner clothes and took showers. Everything is handcrafted out of wood and there are stained glass windows in the shower rooms. I could live here forever. I’m so glad we are resting here for a few days after doing so many miles this week. My pinky toe is almost double the size because of a blister, I hate these new shoes.

I heard the triangle ring for dinner and everyone flocked over to eat their organic meals but Spence, Izzy and I headed to McDonald’s. Oh yeah, the guy didn’t steal Izzy’s car and even put air in her tires, faith is restored in humanity. Spence and I each put down 4 McDoubles with 2 left over for lunch tomorrow and we got Joe, DC, and tinkerbell food they requested as well.

Answer: A mushroom

Day 59: Life at Woods Hole

Monday, May 6th

0 miles today

625.8 miles total

So I slept in my bed without my sleeping bag last night. For one reason I just didn’t make the realization that they intended for you to use your sleeping bag. It was after quiet hours had started and I knew I’d make a lot of noise getting down and rummaging through my bag. So I toughed it out. After I finished writing I fell asleep and woke up in the middle of the night and took off my button down shift to put over my feet to keep them warm. I’m not the brightest but I can survive the cold night, my friends know that.

Neville, the owner, rang the breakfast triangle at 7:30 and I was so excited. I love how everyone gathers into a circle and we have a moment of silence before someone feels compelled to say their name and what they’re a thankful for and we continue around until everyone has said their piece. Then we’re allowed to walk around behind the house and pick up homemade pottery plates and fill our plates and grab a bandana napkin and a glass jar of water. I love how almost everything here was made by hand. There’s so much love and kindness that flows through this place. I could tell when I saw a small flock of goldfinches flying like paper airplanes wavering through the wind around the property, and the peeper frogs chirping around the porch, even the wildlife loves it here.

The breakfast spread consisted of pumpkin bread, cheesy grits, eggs, sourdough and jams and jellies from scratch. All just so delicious and seeing all the people who stay here and put the time into running this place combined with the ethereal atmosphere made it that much more meaningful. After we helped clean up and wipe the wood tables.

It’s hard to remember the order of events but as I’m typing this it’s actually coming back to me. Izzy and I moved to the bunks upstairs and without exchanging anything I picked a bed assuming she’d probably want the one near it as well and just now she told me out of all the beds in this room that was the one she would’ve wanted most and I just knew. Then we got our load of laundry going and just hung out. This is where the day kinda melds together, Izzy picked up a Henry David Thoreau book and half read while we engaged with ever changing conversation. Some point we were inside some times we were outside but there’s always good people around to talk to.

In the afternoon we all piled into Izzy’s car with bibo too to head to town. I learned then that bibo knows some obscure funk/brass bands like stargazer and moon hooch that I know only because Izzy makes other people play music in her car. Walmart was disappointing they didn’t have the tuna selection we hoped for and bibo finished four Banana nut muffins before we finished checking out. Luckily food lion had t what we needed and we even stopped at the outfitter store if you can even call it one so Joey could get new poles.

We got back and it started pouring rain. This is where I loose track of what happened but I know I ended up on the porch after it stopped raining and I saw them picking lettuce for the garden and I said that looks like fun, Izzy didn’t hear me but hoped up and joined them. Then at 4 Neville lead about 8 of us in yoga indoors with dogs roaming around. This place is freaking amazing they hardly make any money and it runs on kindness so if you ever come here keep the magic alive.

We all sat on the porch waiting for dinner and at 6 the triangle rang again and again we stood in a circle. A big pot of chili and big pot of rice and salad and more bread was for dinner and everyone got one soft gooey chocolate chip cookie. Some of the best food of my life. Izzy and I both were thinking how we could just stay here for so long.

Sometime later the sun is down and we’re inside talking with people I haven’t seen before and about random things and it’s hard to go to bed when you want to soak it all in but at some point you gotta call it.

I’m so happy I get to do this all again tomorrow. No rush and no plan.

Day 60: Croquet

Tuesday, May 7th

0 miles today

625.8 miles total

I slept so good last night and I wasn’t cold this time. Breakfast was just as good and I was thankful for my parents who brought me into this world to eat this delicious food.

Today consisted of migrating from one spot to the next to sit and chat or attempt to play trivial pursuit or wash my dishes while soggy played ac/dc songs on the guitar to eating cheese and bread with Izzy. Eventually we got around to setting up croquet that they just happened to have laying around. I setup a course and me and Izzy were about to start and Joe and Spence joined in. They only have 3 good balls and one completely taped up. It was a close beginning but joe got a lead and kept it the rest of the game. It wasn’t even a competition by the end.

I organized my food bag and put stuff away and lounged around some more while Izzy went inside to help prep for dinner. She came back telling us how they basically offered her a job here if she wanted. We lounged around for a while up in the bunkhouse and I saw we still had ten more minutes until dinner so I couldn’t still relax then I hear one, two, then a whole long of chimes from the triangle.

I did not think of anything to be thankful for and Spencer, standing right next to me decided to go first so I had to think of something on the fly and I was totally blank. I did not expect sweet potatoes noodles to taste so freakin good. I told Izzy I would’ve been happy if it was the same meal every time but the fact that they change the meaning course every time just makes it that much better, and it’s always served with bread and fresh lettuce.

After dinner Izzy talked about lobster fishing as will asked question after question. I setup another course for croquet which I thought would be more challenging but it was only hard for us as Joe easily won before we could even hit the first pole. I think I’m retiring from croquet, Joe setup another course and played it several times over by himself just for fun. In the middle of our second game Neville tried to get a fire going and it was for a little but with wet wood it didn’t catch. We tried a few more times and eventually will got some nail polish remover and Izzy widdled kindling with Spencer’s help and they got it going. Slowly more people joined and we sat around the ring until the stars came out.

Today I couldn’t help but think about it being my last full day and I’ll have to leave tomorrow. It’s like that 3 day vacation where the first day everything is new and exciting and it feels like you have forever to do everything and the second day you feel comfortable and relaxed and the third day you feel at home but can only think about how you have to leave the next day and you don’t know when you’ll have this time again. I know it’s a little backwards because in a way this is one big vacation but the feelings still translate and ontop of that I have a friend I have to say goodbye to. It’s nothing but dread, I wish it could last forever, nothing does.

We brush our teeth and I spit out my toothpaste on the floor from laughing too hard but I get most of it into the sink.

"It's so hard to forget pain, but it's even harder to remember sweetness. We have no scar to show for happiness. We learn so little from peace."

I hope this writing will be the metaphorical scar to show for my happiness.

Day 61: Change of Plans

Wednesday, May 8th

11.5 miles today

637.3 total miles

I laying in my hammock tonight and it’s comfortable but those beds at woods hole are something else. I wake up second to last only nightwatch is still sleeping. It’s about 15 until they ring for breakfast and I pack up most of my things beforehand but I have the need to use the bathroom but I don’t want to miss the thankful circle but when I get down the steps I realize it can’t wait. Then I’m in the bathroom and I hear that triangle ring and I was a little late but Neville was reading a poem she wrote in her 20s so I was able to squeeze next to will and Izzy. A few minutes into this poem will leans over and whispers “I think she must’ve been on drugs when she wrote this.”

The food was as good as ever but today they had a French toast casserole type thing that was soo good with the maple syrup. By the time we all sat down it looked like it was going to storm but it never did.

I was ready to go all packed up and the guys hadn’t even put their shoes on yet. When they did get ready they heard from Izzy that the mugs were for sale and they do ship so they both bought one which took way too long. Izzy and I got to sit on the porch and pet Megan the retired sled dog so I guess that made up for it. I also saw yard sale, one hit wonder, and rogi walk in. A few faces I thought I wouldn’t see for a while especially rogi, I hadn’t seen her since hot springs back when I was side quest. I guess that’s what happens when you take a few 0 days.

We finally got up and going and Izzy drove us up the dirt road to the trail and we said our goodbyes and gave goodbye hugs. I was able to get a disposable film camera from this guys Don Quixote and I wish I’d taken a picture of that moment.

It was a rocky uphill to the top of our first climb with a view where I realized the bottom of one of my trekking poles was gone, fell off somewhere. So now I can only use one until I find a place with a new tip which probably won’t be for a while. There was another good view spot where we had a snack and discussed plans. They saw the bad weather coming in and were both coughing from allergies and joked about getting the cheap motel in town but I knew they were serious. I was just like whatever sure why not. So we get down to the road and try to call these places. Plaza motel, booked, holiday lodge $100, hostel only has tent spots, so we’re outta luck. A couple hikers are down by us and booked a night at the hostel so the my have a ride coming to pick them up and we hop in so we don’t have to hitch into town. We say screw it and walk over to the holiday lodge and it looks like garbage and the office smells like cat piss. We get a room 115 and we open the door and it’s another pungent odor with dirt on the floor and it takes 20 seconds to realize there’s no way we’re sleeping in this dump. He gives us another key 118 we go back, it takes 3 seconds after the smell of cigarettes and more dirt to realize we want a refund and we’ll just tent at the hostel.

Spence and I sit outside while they’re trying to convince Joe to just try another room and ask if air freshener will help with the smell before he finally gets a refund.

Before we get there it’s already dinner time so we decide to go to the Mexican restaurant. Guess who we see, will, Ziggy, Molly, and a bunch of other people we saw at woods hole. Everyone is here so our worrries about the shelter being full went out the window, literally everyone in their mama is here. We grab food and more hikers we know roll in. That shelter is probably empty right now.

Ziggy, will, Molly and us head over to the DQ for dessert before heading to the hostel behind the food lion with stray cats behind it eating fried chicken. The only place I can setup my hammock is right over this guys tent so I had no other choice. We hang and talk with the other hikers and then IMom rolls in with goose and tink he said he’s staying at the church with them and we tell him about our hotel experience and he said he had to stay there one night and it was just as gross as we thought.

It supposed to rain all day tomorrow, yay!

Day 62: Pink Lady’s Slipper

Thursday, May 9th

19.6 miles today

657 miles total

Last night it decided to just pour before midnight and the winds haven’t been this fast since the beginning of North Carolina. It was a bit of a culture shock going from that warm comfy bed at woods hole to my hammock swinging in the wind and rain. Luckily I stayed dry and my stakes didn’t come out of the ground. I was going to wake up at 6 but it was warm and cozy in my sleeping bag so that was delayed by maybe half an hour.

Today’s hike featured a walk by the road, factory, contaminated water and a landfill. The smells were great. Up on the ridge line we had to carry water for over 12 miles. The view was great and I had a McDonalds burger at the top. That didn’t bode well when there was a steep climb before the end of the day. On the descent I passed 3 pink lady slipper orchids. I was so excited to see the first one and then seeing two more was so cool. Other than that today was just another day. We got to the shelter before most of the other people did and it’s definitely not meant for us to fit 8.

Day 63: Punto

Friday, May 10th

18.5 miles today

675.5 miles total

I got a good sleep in the shelter last night but I didn’t say anything because nobody else slept well. It was another day where not a whole lot happened. We hiked up a couple big 2,000ft climbs and the they both had good 180 degrees views up top. I think my feet are finally getting used to these new shoes and my body is starting to get stronger I can tell the climbs still suck but I’m going way quicker. I just feel a little tired by the end of the day and typical aches and pains but nothing crazy. I haven’t touched my knee brace in a while and I roll my ankle nearly everyday but no pain from that either.

I stopped for lunch at a shelter before it started to rain and there was a flycatcher nest inside. After an hour of lunch I decided to get that last climb over with. I had to take a few stops but I made it and the view at Kelly’s knob was pretty cool. I had service so I was able to call my friends and get a loose schedule for them to come up and visit! I’m so excited, nobody else out here as had so many people visit on trail and I feel so lucky to have such great friends and family. I also saw two ring-necked snakes up there in the rocks. The climb down was quick and there was plenty of space in the shelter but style wasn’t here, Wes said he pushed on 7 more miles. It was passed 5 o’ clock and I was not going to push anymore and we’d already done 18.5 miles. I was ready to set up and make dinner.

I met bobcat and friend a mother and son doing section hiking and they taught me a card game called Punto. I played a game with friend, Wes, and clothesline and clothes won.