Week 24: Maine

Day 162: An Unexpected Reunion

Saturday, August 17th

Barn Hostel

7.8 miles today

1877.8 miles total

We got out of the hut bright and early, I could’ve sleep for several more hours if I had the chance. We didn’t really want to hike but we did, up and over Madison our last 4k mountain in the presidentals and technically I did it within 24hrs of starting yesterday. The views were really cool of Washington and the undercast. We hung out there for a bit eating snacks and looking at the views.

The next 7.3 miles were all down, all the elevation we gained over yesterday. A couple miles from the gap I saw DC! I talked with him for a bit and he said drops and everyone was behind him so I saw them too and then when I got to the gap I saw high noon and Rogi! They’d taken 3 zeros with someone they’d met on trail but we finally caught up to them all. We could’ve kept hiking after getting to Pinkham notch but we were just too tired and wanted the others to catch up, Bibo, style and mojo. Tomorrow is wildcat, the steepest mile on the AT and the last of the white mountains to follow. In a few days we will be in Maine!

Day 163: Up Up Up

Sunday, August 18th

Imp Campsite

13.1 miles today

1890.9 mile total

We got the shuttle ride back to the trail in the old 86’ Cadillac. The sleep last night was great. Despite the fact that the only guy that snored was sleeping next to me, why do the snorers always fall asleep first?

We saw the rest of the gang back at the visitor center, forklift gave me the last of her breakfast and we all just chatted and things.  Spencer’s friend Chris came to hike the wildcats with him and I left before they did. This climb up wildcat is supposedly the steepest mile on the entire trail and it was surly steep. I just took it nice and slow and kept a comfortable pace and eventually I made it to the top. Went over peak D, C, B, then A and a steep decent to the hut. There I had my last baked good and bowl of soup. Ate quickly and left in 30 minutes. I talked to a father and son who were hiking the next peak for a bit then I kept going to the carters. This is one of the last mountain ranges in the whites and it was kicking my butt.

Is also been following this girl Tara Dower on instagram and YouTube she was getting ready to do the FKT on the AT this year and I got to see her pass by going south and wished them luck.

There weren’t any good views today it was all covered in fog and clouds. I got to the shelter and there wasn’t a care taker so I didn’t have to pay. I met Sharky, ketchup, birch bark and stream walker. I talked with them while I setup my stuff. The sun opened up later so in the evening and we went down to the view and watched the sunset. Now it’s time for bed.

Day 164: Back at The Hostel

Monday, August 19th

Barn Hostel

8.1 miles today

1899 miles total

It was a quick morning, mostly everyone was gone before I left camp. The hike up to Moriah wasn’t too bad and I did the short side trail to the summit for one last 4k+ mountain in New Hampshire. It was a windy wet morning, didn’t really rain much last night but it was all still wet and damp. It made the down climbs harder and there was lots of mud to doge as usual. I had a couple falls but nothing bad. I caught up to and passed high noon who was talking to anything about tornados in Oklahoma. Then I caught up to Birdy and we talked for a while about how close we are to finishing this hike and how we’re feeling. Lots of people are miserable at this point and are ready to be done but not us. Then we caught up to forklift and talked with her for a bit. At the road we waited for Paul from the hostel to pick us up in the Cadillac. We did our typical chores and had lunch at the Chinese buffet. I feel pretty good now and well rested today so Spencer and I aren’t going to be 0ing here but Bibo, Mojo and Joe are.

I’m excited to hopefully get to Maine tomorrow! Yay, I’ve been looking forward to this for so long. I tear up just thinking about it.

Day 165: Maine

Tuesday, August 20th

Carlo Col Shelter

17 miles today

1916 miles total

I’m missing that warm dry bed right now.

The first half of the day was steady hiking. We got to the first shelter for lunch just five miles before the border of Maine and my feet were only a little wet. We had lunch there and it got cold quick with the rain and the wind coming in. There was some people in the shelter already but we weren’t going to stay her anyway. One guys I recognized based on someone’s description of a homeless man with a face mask who didn’t have good rumors so I’m glad we didn’t stay there.

This next section took us forever. I don’t think it’s taken me so long to do 5 miles. It was steep up and downs and at the top of mount success Spencer and I couldn’t hold a conversation without laughing at the absurdity of the trail. The top was super windy and rainy and a bog with boards sunken under water and mud. Nobody is going through that without getting your feet wet and muddy. I’m just glad I didn’t end up waist deep like some others.

One section the rocks were so huge we just threw our poles down because it was no use. You needed to have your hands free. It looked like the trail was washed out by big boulders. You could see the trail on the other side up the hill but you had to go down and weave between the rocks and come back up.

Eventually we got to the Maine border. The sign was surrounded by mud and sunken wood. It was barely held up by a pile of rocks around it and my feet went into the muck trying to take pictures of Birdy and Spencer.

Another half mile to the shelter and then a .2 trail down to it. Also wet and rocky and slippery. Don’t get me wrong today was fun but it was type 3 fun.

I was joking that the shelter would be full but it was. Just barely enough room to fit all three of us though. Anything showed up after us and there wasn’t enough for him.

I made my dinner quick and went to bed. My toes are cold and wet, my hands are cold, it’s all cold. Yay Maine.

Day 166: The Mahoosucs

Wednesday, August 21st

Trunk’s House

14 miles today

1930 miles total

It was a cozy night in that little shelter with 10 of us inside on a rainy night. That was probably the earliest I’ve ever gone to bed. The rain really just makes you want to sit inside and do nothing.

We got to hiking and it was just as muddy and rugged as yesterday. It took us 3.5 hours to go 5 miles, we’re never that slow!

We had a snack at the next shelter and I realized I’m eating way more than I planned. Then we hit the mahoosuc notch, the hardest and slowest mile on the AT. It was a deep ravine covered in giant car sized boulders where the trail navigated through and around and in between. To add to the experience it rained on and off the entire way through to make all the rocks more slick. By the end it starts pouring and the end of the trail is under 2 ft of water. We have to bush wack around the sides of the trail to go around it. Not that my feet aren’t already soaked.

Then we have to climb out of the notch and up the mahoosuc arm. A grueling climb up 1500 in a mile, one of the steepest miles on the trail. With all the rain to it was just hit slabs of exposed rock with water running down it. Finally we made it to the top which was exposed to the wind, rain, and covered in mud.

Down at the bottom we got to old speck pond and we were freezing cold. We stopped to eat a snack before the climb up and my hands went numb. I hadn’t felt this cold since the start of the trail. Spencer and I both considered booking a place to stay tonight. Birdy was there and then said the person she knew in the area was willing to let us stay the night as well, thank goodness.

So we ate our food, drank some ice cold brown pond water and ascended up to old speck. The views were great from the old tower up there. We met Birdy at the bottom with Trunks, so Birdy was hiking with this guy trunks in the beginning but trunks had to get off. So they kept in touch and since he lived near bethel he offered her a place to stay when she got here and he was kind enough to let us stay even though we’d never met.

Trunks drives very quick in his Honda element. He also lives off the grid, like completely. We didn’t have any service there, they run the house on a generator and solar panels. They have a Great Dane, a St. Bernard and a couple cats. They had dinner ready when we got there, pork loins, corn, rolls, Mac and cheese, green beans, potatoes and brownies for dessert. After we showered we watched some AT videos from a guy in Birdy and Trunk’s old tramily. Then hit the hay for an early day tomorrow.

I almost forget to mention. On the drive home trunks asked us if we wanted to get high with him tomorrow (he flies planes) and we said yes!

Day 167: Getting High

Thursday, August 22nd

Hall Mountain Lean-to

16.3 miles today

1946.3 miles total

We wake up at six thirty get all our bags repacked. Eat breakfast sandwiches with hash browns, blueberry muffins with some local Maine maple syrup and we’re off to the hanger. Trunks has a beautiful 1952 Cessna 170 4 seater plane just ready to take flight. I can’t believe this is my life. He does all the pre flight rituals then pushes it out of the hanger. We get inside and buckle up and put our headsets on and before I know it we’re shooting down the runway and up into the air. Just over 100 miles an hour we’re flying around the mountains we’re gonna hike over la ter today and trunks is pointing out all the local places and telling stories. It couldn’t have been a cooler day to fly with all the low hanging clouds but views for miles. Mountains in every direction and just green everywhere.

It was over too soon but I couldn’t have been more grateful. Then he took us to the local grocery store to grab extra food and then dropped us back at the trail. People are so kind I just feel so helpless at times.

On the hike up we stopped at a shelter for a quick snack and talked to some Canadians who were doing a week long trip before going back to university. They asked us a lot of questions about the trail.

The rest of the hiking wasn’t nearly as bad as the last couple days. It was still very slick and muddy though and steep. Near the end of the day we were able to pickup the pace but then the miles slowed down again. I’m so glad the shelter is actually on the trail. However, the privy is not and I had to walk over 100yards dodging more mud and almost shit my pants. I held it for 6.8 miles. I’m also so happy that only 1 person, numbers, was in the shelter so we didn’t have to cram. Today was full of blessings. It’s only raining now that we’re inside and ready for bed. Here’s to another day in Maine.

Day 168: Dancing Down the Mountain

Friday, August 23rd

Bemis Mountain Lean-to

12.8 miles today

1959.1 miles total

I hate to say it but I’m starting to get sick of this trail. It’s just not fun most of the time. This section is just terrible. It sucks because I don’t want it to end this way but it’s hard to find the motivation to keep going besides thinking about it being over and done with.

We didn’t get out of camp until 9 because it was just cold and our clothes were wet. Joe actually passed by our camp before we even left. It was a steep decent and then a steep climb for a little view then straight back down to a river crossing several feet deep with boulders submerged and a rope across it. I took my shoes off and held onto the rope as I went from boulder to boulder.

I’m happy the sun finally came out and we had some blue skies today. I could dry off and eat some food while I waited. I’ve never been this hungry on trail. I thought I had hiker hunger but now I eat food and it doesn’t feel like I’ve eaten anything.

I caught up to Joe on the next big long climb up to old blue mountain and hiked together for a bit. We passed an older lady named Kentucky and she said it looked like we were just “dancing down the mountain.” The miles are so slow because there’s so much mud and obstructions you have to stop and hop around at odd angles and even pole vault yourself across. We finally got to the shelter at like 3:30 and I was done. We were surprised to go 8 more miles but there was no way, the last 1.7 took an hour. We’d normally never go that slow. Even in the white mountains we could go quicker.

I had lunch and two dinners and I could probably eat more. This is ridiculous. I can’t carry enough to satisfy my hunger.