Week 6: What’s My Age Again?

Day 36: Southern Cookie Lady

Saturday, April 13th

15.9 miles today

302.1 miles total

Sooo about last night. The winds did come and they brought thunder and lightning along with them. I was awoken by a very big flash followed by an instant crack of thunder that couldn’t have been any closer. It felt like it was right over me. So after sitting there for a second in shock and panic I pulled my phone out to try and record it. I kept missing the flash but I got the thunder. It right after the other there’d be lightning then thunder several more times as it down-poured and the wind howled. I just prayed that my rain fly steaks stayed in the ground so wouldn’t get drenched. I had enough service to check the radar and luckily it was just a quick storm passing through. Apparently there was more later on in the night but I was sound asleep.

We breezed through the first four miles fairly quick but the next section was mainly uphill and sure to slow us down. A couple miles later I saw a guy coming the opposite direction and he reminded be about the southern cookie lady, her house was coming up soon. I totally forgot having had this conversation with Tiffany last night. But now I was excited for some cookies! Just a 100 yards or so off trail was her cabin in the woods, she wasn’t there but her husband was working on framing a new structure on the property and came over to say hello. He says she baked thousands every year for the past 3 years. There’s a spiral bound notebook where everyone this year has signed their name and I recognize a few. There’s a big container with lots of cookies and a sign on top that says the first is free and each one after is $2. These ones are peanut butter chocolate chip and each cookie has its own bag that says “southern cookie lady.” They were delicious, more on the drier side with a little bit of crunch.

Around 8 miles in we stopped at a shelter for lunch with Niki (a science teacher from San Juan island in Washington) and Thighclops( a triple crown thru-hiker). It was beautiful sunny day to lay on the picnic table  after a filling cold ramen lunch.

It wasn’t much longer after that when we got to the summit of Big Firescald Knob 4530ft up. It was a nice walk along the ridge line with beautiful views of farms as far as you could see with a smaller ridge line off in the distance. No clouds or anything to block the sun’s warmth. We saw sunny up there so we all stopped to hangout for a bit before reaching the 300 mile mark! It’s just unreal at this point. That’s like walking from my house to Wrightsville beach almost. Only 168 more miles until I reach Virginia! Pigpen actually just sent us a picture of the big sign in Damascus so she’s a couple weeks ahead of us at this point.

Day 37: Every Day is Hard

Sunday, April 14th

15.5 miles today

317.6 miles total

I think this morning was the first time I woke up and didn’t feel completely rested. It seemed like I woke up several times throughout the night but didn’t want to bother looking at my watch. But I remember seeing the moon change positions and that’s how I know the time had passed. Astronomy is my new clock, my body wakes me up after the sun rises, I can feel the heat of mid day sun, and I’m ready for bed when the sun goes down.

So today was hard, my body aches and I feel like I have no energy but when I glance at my watch I’m still going the same pace. I’m thankful for the grassy meadows and slow decline that was this morning. I took a quick stop at the Shelton gravesite to pay respects for a moment before carrying on. There’s actually been quite a few gravestones along the trail in this section. Each one I stop at for a moment to read the name and dates, I’m not entirely sure why but I do. We had lunch at a shelter 6 miles in and when I got there the guys thought the mile markers on the gps were wrong and we could get to Erwin in 2.5 days like we thought but after I thought it was too good to be true, I went over the mileage again and it was. I didn’t want to do another 21 mile day after these 15 mile days just to get there a day early. There’s no rush, sure it might be stretching our food but it’s manageable and I’d rather get there without rushing. So we’ll see what happens.

On top of not sleeping well it came with an un easy headspace. I couldn’t put a finger on the cause, maybe it was the bad sleep, the fact that we messed up the miles again, my body starting hurting again, waking up to my phone charger being broken, or the sun beating down on my face. Sometimes I just get into that crappy feeling and no matter what it’s hard to shake so I just ride out. I try to remember how lucky I am to be out here and keep taking another step forward.

Just when you need it the most a blue tent appears. More trail magic thanks to Coins and Camo. They really hooked us up with an assortment of sandwich bags either filled with deli meat, fruits, vegetables, or pickles with drinks and sweets. I said thank you too many times but I couldn’t help it, I really meant it. Camo hiked in 21’ with support from his wife he finished in 5 months and his only regret was not going slower. He was a very animated man and repeated the same “take your pack off, grab something to eat and take a seat” phrase for every hiker that came in after us. When I asked for advice he reminded us that everyday is gonna be hard, there will be nice days and bad days but it’ll never stop being hard but you can do it. We sat there and gorged ourselves while mortosycles passed every couple minutes. Everytime I get food like this I eat like it’s the last time I’ll ever eat, like a squirrel storing all his bits for the winter in every place he knows. Then idk if he lied intentionally but he said the next section was rolling hills very easy, yeah it was not.

After a brief walk through more grass and a decent into a valley where I heard roosters crowing in someone’s backyard, it was an uphill battle. I mean beautiful with a small waterfall/cascade that we crossed several times where everything was green expect for the path infront of you and the sparse trees but basically straight up. It wasn’t much farther after the end of that climb but I was exhausted as ever when I got to camp.

Everytime I start blowing up my sleeping pack I can feel my feet ache not wanting to bear anymore weight. Then I learn the water source is a quater mile away. Now I know I sound like I’m complaining a lot but come on this is a sick joke. So I soak my feet and drink and grab as much water as possible before I hike out of there to make dinner.

The sunset glazed the tree tops and spewed magnificent reds and orange hues while cooked dinner. We talked with producer and no tricks while I resisted the urge to eat my Oreos before I finished dinner. Now it’s time to fall asleep to the creaky trees dancing in the wind.

Day 38: Appreciation

Monday, April 15th

10.1 miles today

327.7 miles total

I think we’re all glad we ended up doing a shorter day today. It was even harder than yesterday. The blistering heat and long steep slopes didn’t make it any easier.

Last night the winds howled all night long, more than we expected. I was rocked side to side in my hammock a little bit and I didn’t get much sleep. This morning was lazy and with only 10 miles ahead of us I felt no need to rush.

Along the way I saw Joey and Spence bent looking at something on the ground. As I got closer I saw the butterfly with a broken wing and watched Spence pick it up on his trekking pole and carry it a while. Eventually settling it down i looked around to find it on the side of the trail. I sat there for a moment with it. Its life has been cut short and it lays there not even bothered by my touch. I wonder how far it’s traveled, what life it’s lived, if it knows that its last moments are upon it.

Crossing under the highway I think how close I am to ashville, 45 minute by car and think how far I’ve come to be so close to home. After that we pass through a gate, yeah like an actual chain link fence gate to enter the National forest again and begin the climb to big bald. It wasn’t easy but I was so thankful to see the cooler bag with only one apple left and I was the one to get it. There were some chips and snacks below that we munched on before climbing some more.

The view was spectacular! On this clear day we could see for miles in every direction, no picture or video could capture the feeling of this view. We’re surrounded by mountains and no trees blocking our view. The wind whipped by in small gusts as we laid there for a while without a care in the world. Then a husky mix came sprinting up the hill and greeted us with kisses before we went back down to the Shelter. I don’t know what it was but that next mile and half flew by.

At the shelter we actually had time to relax a little after cooking our meals and filling up on all the water we lost. We were the first ones to the shelter and were the only ones here for a while besides one guy who set up his tent. I was so surprised and wondered where everyone else had gone to. I made a last minute decision to go up to the closer view and watch the remainder of the sunset. I was a little too late in my decision but still caught the tail end of it making it all worth it.

Day 39: Uncle Johnny’s

Tuesday, April 16th

16.8 miles today

344.5 miles total

This morning we were surprised to see a mom and two bear cubs sprinting past our camp. I thought it was just another deer at first but when I turned around and saw black I knew instantly what it was. They went by so quick we didn’t even have time to really react but they didn’t care for us. They must’ve been spooked by someone else.

We set off for the hostel in Erwin unsure if we’d have a spot sleep since the guy didn’t respond to Spence’s text. Even though it was mainly downhill there was some uphill that took the breath out of you and the humidity was still high.

We had lunch at no business shelter and I got the impression that the people there — also having lunch — weren’t too keen on conversation so I didn’t bother much. I just scarfed down as much food as I could muster before we got back to hiking. I wish I could remember what I was thinking about while hiking today. I didn’t listen to any music or books and just let my mind wander. It’s kind of like a meditation just watching your steps and thinking about how to avoid roots and rocks and step just so to reduce the impact on my knees.

On the final downhill portion into town there were a couple rock formations with good views worth stopping. Then I talked to tick magnet for the last quarter mile or so down to the hostel that was literally right off trail just like laughing heart. I saw joeys and Spence stuff so I put mine down and walked into the store and eventually they showed up. They showed me the cabin and I agreed to sleep on the floor so we could all split it and avoid the mess of the bunk room.

We had two hours until the free shuttle left for the grocery store, which would seem like a long time, but as you know by now there’s so much to do it flew by pretty quick and before I knew it we were dropped off at food city. I really hate that the only thing you can eat out here is processed junk but it’s the stuff with the most calories. I just think that when I get stronger I’ll have more will to pack out some good stuff with me and for now I’ll enjoy it in town when I can.

When we got back we saw Nick and the other guys we didn’t think we’d see again for a long time. The laundry was finally open so we put our stuff in and had to dry it like 3 times and some of our stuff is still damp. A couple phone calls later and I’m ready for bed.

P.S. I got to see Miss Janet again briefly as she picked up some hikers. I was so happy to see her.

Day 40: Scary Sounds

Wednesday, April 17th

4.4 miles today

348.8 miles total

The small little fan in our small little cabin kept me cold and I used my puff my jacket as a makeshift blanket. Regardless I got a decent amount of sleep. We took it easy this morning lounging around until late in the afternoon because we only planed on doing 4 miles out of town to the next shelter. Uncle johnnys is a cool spot, interesting people and all but it’s a place held together by loose strings. Don’t get me started on the shower, the floor feels like you’re gonna fall through and I’m not that heavy comparatively.

Joey and I jumped into the shuttle last minute to get a couple things we forgot to yesterday. Which included my $18 iPhone charging cable because the one from Neels gap just stopped working, and hand sanitizer for Joey. I got more bojangles for breakfast/lunch while we waited for the shuttle to return.

We thought it was gonna rain around 2 but when we finally left around 3:30 there wasn’t a drop. I stopped to tie my shoes and then retie them because I tied them too tight. I crossed over our first set of railroad tracks and not long after the train passed by, the same one that kept us up all night. I didn’t get far past that when I ran into story who was slack packing again. I first ran into him at the trail magic the other day. So slack packing is when people pay hostels or shuttle drivers to take them (usually uphill or somewhere further up the trail) with only a few things in their pack so they can avoid the “hard sections” and hike them with less weight. I do not plan on doing that at all I feel like it defeats my purpose of being out here but to each their own. Anyway he only had negative things to say about this next section of trail ‘it’s harder, really rocky, lots of roots, I thought I could go fast downhill but even that was hard.’ So that was good to hear.

It wasn’t much longer before I reached the shelter and this time it was only us. Bad news is there is no privy and the water is not great. Besides that tho we had our fun goofing off, playing our music (lots of blink-182) and just enjoying life. When we got into our bags for the night we heard some rustling coming from the woods just out past the shelter. We all stopped to listen so quiet I could hear my heart beat. We heard it move a couple more times before Joey went out with his poles to investigate. Then I saw it hop away from him, it was just a rabbit.

Day 41: Just Another Day

Thursday, April 18th

12.9 miles today

361.7 miles total

Honestly today was just another day. I woke up to Joey showing me a video he took of me snoring we packed our things and were on our way. The first part of the day was a breeze just small ups and downs and I stopped at the first water source to fill up. On the way out I saw another big black rat snake. I feel like I’ve seen more wildlife in the last couple days than I have this whole trip. Maybe because it’s getting warmer and everything is waking up and venturing out.

I dont think about much when I’m hiking. Just small thoughts come and go but none of them really stick. The only thing I was thinking about was my trail name. I did kinda like it at first but after some thought idk it just feels like a cop out. We ran into some trail magic and some other people were talking about getting lost off trail too. It just don’t feel special like everyone gets lost and I feel like my navigation skills in normal life are quite good in fact. I don’t know maybe it’ll stick but I kinda hope I get something better.

Brother Tom and his dog Joshua were at the bottom of a hill and he gave me an Arnold Palmer and a slice of pumpkin bread, soo yummy. If you live near a trail you should do trail magic it’s such a blessing.

The climb out of that gap was tiring but worth it. Beauty spot was the name of this bald and it was another 360 degree view just absolutely gorgeous. We decided to have a little lunch up there and climb a tree for entertainment. It’s a weird mix of attitude out here. Sometimes it’s like a job you have to keep a loose schedule and make sure you do your miles to get to resupply. However, sometimes you feel like there’s no responsibility and there no obligation to do anything. I feel like I’m the only sensible one in the group sometimes.

The next peak was so cool it was like walking through a Christmas tree Forrest. The top was nothing but pines and spread out so evenly you could barely detect where the trail weaved between them. Then the next part was just a trail through thick fir trees and the smell was just barely noticeable.

We decided to changed plans for tomorrow with a thunderstorm coming we didn’t want to hike up to the highest shelter on the AT. So we’ll do 9 miles tomorrow and extend this section by a day. We’re all sleeping in the shelter tonight with one other guy named will. It looks like there’s a couple mice running around so we put out some toilet paper as an offering for them so they don’t mess with our stuff. I’m hoping this advice works.

Day 42: What Now..

Friday, April 19th

9.1 miles today

370.8 total miles

We heard squeaking and watched the mice running around nearly all night but luckily they didn’t mess with us. I think they did take some of the toilet paper we noticed some missing and heard them trying to pull it through the hole in the wood.

4 am came very quickly and by 4:30 we were all up packing to avoid the “thunderstorm” that was supposedly approaching. It was still just as clear as it was before we went to bed. In fact, I could see nearly every cloud in the sky but we were already up and followed our plans. It was still dark enough that we needed headlamps to see but the sun was up within an hour as owls made their calls and song birds began their morning. The sunrise was pretty cool but it showed the clouds slowly approaching.

About halfway through thunder rippled across the clouds and the rain came shortly after. First it was sprinkles then it was full on rain. A couple times I had to check my phone to make sure I was still on the right track and to see how much further I had to go. Just after 9 I got to the shelter and saw the guys already unpacked. We sat there for a little hike then set up our sleeping bags to warm up and dry off. The rain started to stop and the sun actually came out but it looked like another band of rain was supposed to come in the evening so we decided to stay here and not at the highest shelter 8 miles ahead.  The other guy who stayed in the shelter with us last night decided to push on. We ended up taking naps and woke back up around 1 to have lunch and we just hung around all day.

Later on more people showed up and time slowly passed to dinner to hanging bear bags to going to bed. Life is boring when you’re not hiking.