Day 120: A Hard Bargain
Saturday, July 6th
Fairmount inn
15.5 miles today
1297.4 miles total
The owners of the restaurant were really nice to let us sleep on that porch but we should’ve asked about the fans. It was hot hot hot. I didn’t even use my sleeping quilt. We heard trucks and cars driving by all night long and early in the morning the thunderstorm rolled through and woke us up. So much to say we didn’t sleep much but I was still grateful. The owner Joe made coffee and drove us back up to the trail head when we were ready.
When I put that pack on I realized I bought way too much food. And we had to Cary extra water because it was like 10 miles without a water source, so my pack was probably in the low thirty’s and for the first time in a while. The rocks were still there cutting up our shoes and making it hard to keep a stride going. The miles seemed to fly by though and i took a snack break with Spencer at a rock out cropping with a couple black vultures. I tried to eat as much as I could to lessen the weight and when i realized we were a couple miles from water I dumped my extra half a liter to save weight.
A few miles later I saw Joe and other people at this shelter and stopped there for lunch. I drank as much water as I could, ate some more but didn’t have much of an appetite. It just kept getting hotter, lots of people had shirts off or they were soaked in sweat. I find that I lose my appetite in the heat. A few more miles and we began the descent into Delaware water gap, the last town in PA. For some reason we saw a lot of day hikers going up the mountain in clothes that I wouldn’t dream of hiking in. But there were no good views like no reason at all for them to hike this section.
The trail drops you right into town and just a block down was a church that runs a donation based hostel in the basement and it was FULL! So many people in there and no A/C just a fan and a dehumidifier. It was still 80 something outside but it felt cooler than inside. They had a bucket and a hose for people to do laundry and the clothesline with full of peoples clothes. There were some spots to camp but with it being so hot it was going to be uncomfortable either way. Joe really didn’t want to sleep there with all the people.
We went down to a Sake brewery (the only one in all of PA) and had a free glass and some potato salad. The other guys got food but it was way overpriced for the portion. Then we stopped at the pizza joint (which I recommended we go to earlier) and they got more food there I just got a couple slices. We heard some people got rooms at this one hotel in town for $120ish so we went to ask and they wouldn’t give us a good price lowest was $148 for the three of us and I wasn’t gonna do that. But then we got back to the church and I made my ramen dinner and sitting in the heat the guys started to cave in and want that hotel room. They were willing to pay a little more so I didn’t have to pay as much, so I agreed. Joe called
Back though and the guy wasn’t willing to offer the same price so we said screw that. Then he called Joe back later and said they had one bed and a pullout bed for the $148 and so we took it and I slept on the pullout. It was actually a nice hotel room.
The A/C machine wouldn’t let us adjust it though and then I had a bright idea of pressing the test button on the outlet and then it wouldn’t turn on again. Come to find out the A/C was actually controlled by a unit on the wall, after a while where we thought I broke it, it came back on thank god. We fell asleep to wedding crashers on TV.
Day 121: Swimming
Sunday, July 7th
Mohican Outdoor Center
10.6 miles today
1308 miles total
They didn’t even serve breakfast at this hotel which was the real kick in the balls. I had my pop tart and the guys got donuts at the local bakery. Finally today we crossed the bridge into New Jersey! It didn’t feel all that different but it does feel good to feel like we’re making progress again. We also crossed the 1300 mile marker, less than 900 miles left. Again the mikes came fairly easy today but it did get a little rocky around the lake. We stopped at the sunfish pond which is one of the 7 natural wonders of New Jersey, who knew. We watched a snake catch a frog and swallow it whole while dragon flies flew and ate all the bugs except for one horse fly that kept attacking us. Had some snacks there and kept going through the hottest part of the day.
We filled up at this stream but it had a lot of tannins so even with our water filters it came out a little brown. We also saw chuck norris the dog there! I haven’t seen that guy and his dog since NC I think just before Franklin. He was hiking really slow.. he said they had to do something night hiking too because of the heat.
10 miles in we got to this outdoor center with a big pond, big pond. They have overpriced sandwiches but the swimming was free. We hung out here during the heat and cooled off a little and we weren’t going to stay here but they have a room open 24/7 with A/C so we couldn’t pass that up. We’ll make up the miles anyways.
Day 122: Jamackin me hungry
Monday, July 8th
Cobmin Ridge
17.9 miles today
1325.9 miles total
Sleeping inside that room was one of the best ideas we’ve ever had. I slept right under the A/C unit and the white noise was a chefs kiss perfect. Joe scared me awake in the middle of a dream to get ready at 4am. I actually felt well rested enough to leave then instead of sleeping in. We all packed up fairly quickly and quietly and ate breakfast outside. When Joe came out he said the jerk that took nightwatch’s spot before him told them “could you hurry up and get out? It’s 4:45 and I’m trying to sleep you’re flashing your red lights in my face.” Some spoiled guy .. who wasn’t going to sleep there until he overheard the guys talking about it.
Besides that the sunrise was gorgeous and we got some views of the valley from a firetower just after that. We hiked around a beaver bog and then I almost shit my pants trying to find a spot off trail without someone being able to see me. I didn’t make it very far but luckily nobody was walking by at the time because they could’ve probably seen it all.
I caught up with the guys at a water source later on and listened to some podcasts on the way. Even though today wasn’t the hottest day it was still hot enough to warrant a heat advisory. By 11ish we were coming into town and I was drenched in sweat.
We hung out at Gyp’s Bar right on Kittatny lake and had food from the Jamaican food truck. Since we had some free time I called my dad to catch up on things back home. It was still so hot by 5pm and we couldn’t fathom hiking much more when we wouldn’t get much sleep so they found a local motel that wasn’t too expensive and a local trail angel picked us up while I was playing a game of pool with sweet relish.
The motel was small but recently renovated and big enough to fit two beds and have only enough space to walk between them and open the mini fridge. We had some food at the Mexican restaurant, why are they always next to hotels?
Day 123: HOT
Tuesday, July 9th
Observation tower
15.5 miles today
1341.4 miles total
Today was another, let’s hike a lot of miles and then it instantly falls apart. So we got decent sleep but I must’ve woken up in a bad cycle because I didn’t feel super rested but Dave was nice enough to pick us up at 6:30 and take us to a local store to get pork rolls! Again I don’t try to eat red meat anymore but I’ve never had one of these before so it was an exception and too bad because it was actually pretty good. We also picked up a couple things for resupply but not much because it was really expensive.
We got back to the trail head and not even a mile in we met this guy Micheal doing trail magic so of course we had to sit down and enjoy some of that even though it was already 8 something and getting hotter by the minute. He was nice though and told about him hiking the trail in the 70s when packs weighted 80 pounds, there were no hostels or gps or slack packing. It was a whole different hike. We listened while sitting down riding cold drinks and eating snacks.
A bit after that we made it to another firetower and by this point, a couple miles in, were drenched again and even at the top of this probably 50ft firetower there was absolutely no wind at all. I looked down at the anemometer and it wasn’t moving at all. We sat up there looking at the view hoping for any sort of breeze. I’d never been so happy to feel the slightest breeze.
At the next mountain we were drenched in more sweat so much that even I could wring out my shirt a little bit. We had some snacks and met this guy fancy pants who hiked in 22’ but came back to do this section to Maine because he enjoyed the whites and Maine so much. (He’s starting here so he’ll be in shape by then) only 500 miles until then. The hardest but probably most beautiful parts are still ahead. We also met roosters dad who was hiking up to leave some water. We grabbed some on the way down so we didn’t have to drink the brown stream water.
Fancy pants said there should be a good water cache left by locals at the next shelter and I didn’t trust it entirely but he was right and by then it was 1 and we were baking in that heat. Even in the shelter in the shade was hot. We found a little milk snake in the shelter and I relocated it. I talked to fancy pants some more and found out he is an opera singer, pianist and conductor from San Francisco.
We might’ve spent too much time there because when we got to the high point state park it was just after 4 and they were closed so we couldn’t get any soda or fresh water but had to drink the water from the spigot and usually I don’t mind that but this one tasted almost as bad as that sulfur water from that 100yr old house. I’ve never been more tired on this trail than today and we’d only done 14 miles but a good chunk of those were during the hottest part of the day.
We made it to this observation tower and the original intentions to keep going were dropped in favor of sleeping up here once we felt the breeze. Even though it probably won’t get below 73 tonight I’m hoping this breeze will stay but these little black bugs are driving me crazy biting the shit out of me .
Day 124: NJ Boardwalk
Wednesday, July 10th (Happy 21st Birthday Peyton)
Quality Inn
19.5 miles today
1360.9 miles total
Last night was terrible, I woke up constantly to bugs bitting me so much I put my hammock around my sleeping pad and zipped it up around me but it was still uncomfortable. There was a nice breeze but it was so humid we woke up to everything damp. I waited for the sun to get up a little, enough to hang stuff out to dry. I was out of water so I went down to the next shelter less than a mile to fill up but had to take an emergency poo and didn’t quite make it in time.
We got water thee in a stream where frogs were jumping around and met our first true south bounder from Katahdin. She didn’t have a trail name and started before the mountain opened because there was still snow and ice up there. She was an interesting character, from New Jersey, and didn’t have a lot of experience.
Today was just a head down and walk kind of day. Especially when you hear about things back home or anywhere off trail and it reminds you that with every breath life is passing by. Life isn’t fair and it never will be. I’ll never understand why things are the way they are and all i can do is accept what is and find the peace in that.
I’m so grateful for the people I know and love and I thank everyone who has supported and shown continuous support in any shape or form. It truly helps me more than you may think. From providing company and good luck to providing me peace of mind and not having to worry about buying a meal or place to stay. Thank you all, you know who you are.
We walked around a flooded swamp, through old stone wall fences and Wildlife refuges. Spencer and I stopped in unionville, NY for some breakfast sandwiches and soda. This heat and humidity have been killer, when we left I took my shirt off because it was so soaked in sweat I could literally wring it out. There was a house right on trail with some soda and a cold hose! Man that felt so good on my head but as soon as I turned it off I was hot again.
My feet were so heavy by the end of today. There’s still rocks in this state not as bad as PA but nothing to ignore. I met a guy named squirrel a 23’ hiker as we tried to dodge these cows blocking the trail. I met Joe at this barn convince store and we hailed a ride to a hotel from there to try and get one more night of good sleep but also because there was just nowhere nearby to camp at and even if we did it would be another hot and humid night.
Time flew and after a long shower and laundry I was out.
Day 125: Drive-in Theater
Thursday, July 11th
Warwick Drive-in theater, NY
15.1 miles today
1376 miles total
We got a late start today, 12pm but we prioritized the sleep. We made the most of the lack luster breakfast and got back to trail for the big climb. Today wasn’t as hot or humid but like any other day it wasn’t easy. The miles did seem to come easier though and with a makeshift plan to get to this drive in theater we made it 15 miles in about 5 hours and crossed the NJ/NY boarder and met back up with moonshine just before.
After getting into new York it was several miles of roller coaster ridge walking and steep rock scrambling. One part even had metal rungs in the rocks to help you climb up.
We made it to the road and walked down to a hot dog stand where we tried hitchhiking from but didn’t get any luck. So we walked a little farther to a creamery where someone offered a ride but not to the drive-in. We saw a couple other hikers there and decided to head back to the stand where the owner had offered us a ride and just when we got there someone pulled over and offered us a ride. His name was Niel and we saw us earlier but went home to drop his groceries off so he had more room. He told us some history of the town while we drove us down to the theater. There was already about ten or so hikers here and after we setup and paid to camp we went to the grocery store for snacks. They are play most of the new movies out right now but we’d already seen inside out 2 and weren’t really caught up on the despicable me series so I wasn’t super interested but it was still fun.
What I really needed was to talk to some friends and I don’t think I’ve ever given that more value in my life than I do now.
“Friends are worth more than gold” - chuck
Day 126: Out of It
Friday, July 12th
Random spot
16 miles today
1392 miles total
I woke up around 8 to the sound of some hikers day drinking and being annoying so I just started packing up because I knew I wasn’t going to be able to sleep. It was a group of people we met just before Delaware water gap and I thought they were cool but they didn’t really acknowledge us when we got in last night and on top of them being loud this morning just added to that. They left and we hung out there for a while, it was a late night last night. It took a while to get moving and it instantly got hot and humid once that sun was high. I charged up my stuff as much as I could and got some water from the sink in the bathroom they left unlocked.
Quick resupply at the grocery store I grabbed a couple ramens and tuna then got a donut for breakfast. I already had a lot of left over popcorn, N/A beer, and a bag of chips for breakfast so a donut didn’t seem so bad.
I thought getting a ride back to the trail was going to be difficult but maybe 5 minutes in we had a guy pull over and open the trunk before we even got up to the car. I was like “omg no way this is happening.” I was so shocked it happened so quick. It took way longer to get into town. Thanks Raymond (I think that was his name not 100%)
Back on trail we were just so out of it today. The trail was unforgiving, super steep sections and just up and down all day, big rocks small rocks you name it. 4,000ft of elevation today like the early parts of the trail. What a wake up call. We didn’t start hiking until 12:40 though and that didn’t help us. Luckily there were like 3 water caches from locals which was nice but by the late afternoon we were tiiiired. To seal the deal we had the lemon squeezer ( a super narrow path between two big rocks) and then a full on rock climb up 15 feet. We got to a water source around 8:30 just before the shelter and called it day. We were going to stop at the lake but there was no good water sources there. But we got in late and I was so tired and annoyed by the bugs and being sweaty I just setup my hammock and went to bed without dinner.
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