Day 85: DC Chicken Sandwiches
Saturday, June 1st (Happy Pride)
14.1 miles today
941.5 miles total
We heard of there being trail magic at this campground by the lodge this morning so that’s why we didn’t really go very far last night. Almost everyone was up and out by 7 to get this breakfast but Spencer and I decided to sleep in until at least 8. We need our beauty sleep out here I don’t know how people can drink all day, wake up super early and keep hiking. I think we’re all just ready to leave Virginia, it’s been a long time. At this point almost half of the total miles I’ve hiked have been in this state and we still have 80 something miles left.
It’s was more up and down today but still the climbs and descents have been fairly gradual. It’s definitely not flat though and it’s been just as rocky and rooty as the rest of the trail. Once again nobody knows what they’re talking about. On the way to the wayside we saw Pete! He was hiking with his son and was planning on ending at the same shelter we were. We haven’t seen him since Georgia I believe so he captured the reunion on his phone for his AT vlog on YouTube. We passed a horse stable just before the wayside so we stopped to pet all the horses and a couple of them tried to lick the salt off my hands.
There was a decent size crowd at this wayside which was actually called the skyline resort. It was a sit down restaurant but we all ordered our food to-go so we could eat outside. I was told by DC to get the DC chicken sandwich and after looking at the menu I could see why. Unfortunately there were no milkshakes here but that’s okay because I was about to pay $20 for a sandwich and didn’t need to spend another $8 on a shake. The chicken sandwich was okay, not as good as the ones earlier on in this hike but that and the potato curls hit the spot. Everyone else ended up getting the chicken sandwich too and then I heard the guy say they ran out of them. Unfortunately for quipdraw, who really wanted one and was waiting for giggles to get there to order, wasn’t able to have one even though he’d gotten there before most of us.
The only water they had there was this orange infused water in the lobby so I filled up on that before Spencer and I pushed to the next shelter. A few more hills and a couple views later we got to the shelter and decided to just rest here and make it an easier day. We saw Pete there and a few sections hikers. Only one more wayside and 28 miles stand between me and the end of the Shenandoah. It’s been fun but also expensive.
Day 86: The Last Wayside
Sunday, June 2nd
17.7 miles total
959 miles total
Man it was super windy last night. It was like we were back in Georgia the wind sounded like a freight train coming through shaking my hammock and drying my clothes. I got to bed around 9 and woke up around 6:30. We got out just after seven and made it to a parking area three miles down to fill up on water. We sat there for a minute and I watched barn swallow parents fly in and out of their nest in the visitor center. Nine miles later we made it to the wayside for lunch and saw nearly everyone there already eating.
So I got my burger and just vanilla milkshake (they were out of blackberry). By the time we got our food and sat outside half of the hikers had left. The vanilla was okay but a little liquidy and I was missing that blackberry taste. I didn’t expect to be there for 3 hours but time flies and I had time to take two poops. We were the last of the hikers to leave, with a few showing up later than we did. The burgers have been good and filling but I’ll be glad to not be spending $20 on a burger.
When we got to the top of the climb out of the wayside we were only 3 miles out from the shelter but i suddenly had to poop really bad. There was absolutely nowhere to hide either so if i did have an emergency everyone behind me that we passed was gonna see. So I booked it down the mountain and going downhill honestly made it worse. There were switchbacks too which didn’t help my situation if I did have to go. Luckily though the feeling subsided up until I got to the 0.2 trail to the shelter. I got down there quick and made it to the privy just in time. Crises averted.
We got here before 5 o clock and made dinner and talked with all the hikers that were here/rolling in. I’m excited to leave the Shenandoah finally and get to front royal tomorrow. We’re so close to leaving VA it’ll be bittersweet but we’re all excited to be out of here i think.
Day 87: Eating Burger King at McDonald’s
13.2 miles today
972.4 miles total
When I got up into the shelter to sleep I noticed all the mouse droppings around where I’d be sleeping. I just ripped off a piece of toilet paper and put it up there, put my headphones on and earplugs in and went to sleep. I heard some banging noises and paused my music but it didn’t continue so I just went back to sleep.
This morning It was humid! Hiking out of camp this morning it wasn’t hot but I was soaked in sweat and I didn’t even want to take my pack off for a break. After a few climbs and miles we crossed the boarder of the Shenandoah and good riddance. I will miss the easy hiking but I won’t miss the lack luster views and overcomericialization.
We hauled butt down the mountain to make the 11:45 shuttle and stopped for some trail magic sweet tea. It wasn’t very sweet though, it actually tasted like unsweetened tea. On the ride into town there was a weird smell inside the shuttle and then it started smoking so we had to evacuate but luckily they pulled off at the martins grocery store. So Spencer and I decided to just resupply there and got food for lunch. I had a few locals walk by and wish me luck on my journey. It’s funny some towns they embrace the hikers and others couldn’t care less.
Then we moseyed over to the super 8 to check in, shower and do laundry. Then we went down to the local brewery which had free laundry and 50% off two beers. So we hung out there to wait for our clothes to dry and talked to sweet relish. He rolled into our campsite late last night and told us he was banging his trekking poles to scare a bear away from his tent. That is why I heard that banging last night!
Some of the other guys came to the brewery to play dungeons and dragons and we went over to the pub to play some billiards. There was another crowd there and they were Drunk. Yeah capital D. They were also supposed to be hiking this evening and didn’t leave until they took a few more shots and left around 8. We tried to play music bingo but it took so long we only lasted a couple rounds before giving up and going back to get dinner. We got Burger King then went to eat it in McDonald’s then ate McDonald’s. I have to say I like Burger King way more than McDonald’s both on the fries and burgers.
Back at the hotel we ended up sharing our room with cheddar dog and drops but we only told them it was two people so don’t tell anybody.
Day 88: Leaving Front Royal
Tuesday, June 4th
Whiskey Hollow Shelter
15.2 miles today
987.6 miles total
The highlight of the morning was the fact that the motel had a pancake machine for breakfast. I made a few. The lowlight, if that’s even a term, was the orange juice, it tasted like water. When drops came down and started filling his cup with orange juice I was like “noooo you don’t want that” all dramatic like and he poured it out into the sink. I thought we’d get up and leave but we ended up just lounging around in our room enjoying the cold A/C. We watched fast and furious and waited until 11 when we’d be kicked out. Everyone else had left expect clothesline and duck who were in the lobby we were going to get a ride from the guy that cheddar dog hitched into town with but she didn’t have his contact. So we decided to just walk down into town and take the trolly back.
We were walking out of the super 8 when we watched a car drive by.. stop.. back up and pull into the parking lot. He rolled down the window and asked if we needed a ride back to trail. We all said yeah but he only had room for 3 and he asked for $20. We felt awkward but said well we’re gonna go take the free shuttle and said thank you. Then he hesitated and most of them walked away and he said alright just get in I’ll take you. So I said “hey he’s willing to take three for free” so cheddar dog joined us. He drivers name was disco and said he hiked in 2021 and he’s living out of his car now and plans on hiking the other two long trails. He was kinda an old ball but very nice to take us back to trail.
It was miserably hot and humid today, worst it’s been so far if I had to guess. At the top of the hill out of town I saw squirrels, DC, Sir snapper and bubble bath taking a little snack break so I joined in. Then high noon and fern rolled up and later cheddar dog and drops and clothesline. We all left around the same time and leapfrogged the rest of the day. A few miles in I had to go #2 and we contemplated hitching down the road to a restaurant marked on our guide but decided to keep going when there wasn’t many cars around. We got to a picnic area and I knew if I ate any amount of food I wasn’t going to be able to stop it. So, after drinking some more water I pushed on 2.5 miles up the hill to the next shelter. I made it. I immediately got into my food bag after washing my hands. I was surprised how far I could go on just hotel breakfast and a family size bag of chips (about 10 miles). At lunch we were swarmed by these jumping spider things but it turned out that they were potentially young lantern flies which are invasive. We also saw a big fishing spider and a milk snake perhaps. Also at this shelter was an abandoned backpack and 3 beers in the spring. A very odd situation. I didn’t take any beers in fear of bad karma and 7 iron and his son were going to stay at the shelter but after seeing the animals decided to keep going to where we planned.
Nightwatch and I were going to leave right after they did but we kinda got roped into a conversation and stay another hour but by then it had cooled off a little bit. It was a nice breezy walk down toward the shelter but it’s .3 off trail which is a little annoying. It’s a very nice shelter though and most of the people are staying inside it. I don’t care if it’s rains tonight, which it might I just heard thunder and saw lightning, it’s too hot and noisy in there.
As I typed that last sentence I could heard the rain coming over the mountain in the distance getting louder and louder until it passed over us. It doesn’t seem to be a hard rain and hopefully doesn’t last too long but that was cool. It’s like when you can see the rain coming in the distance.
Anyway we made dinner and air snapper cooked some brats over the fire for all of us. Now I’m going to enjoy my rain sounds to sleep in and hope my stuff stays relatively dry. I used my trekking poles to stake up my rain fly so it’s like I have a little porch and I should’ve taken it down but I didn’t so.. we’ll see how that goes, it’s not really windy.
Day 89: 1,000 Miles
Wednesday, June 5th
Bear’s Den Hostel
18.6 miles today
1005.8 miles total
Despite the sudden thunderstorm I slept fairly well last night, it was warm though. We got going out of camp fairly late like around 10. Every morning the pain in my calves and shins from all the tight muscles makes me want to quit for the first 2-3 miles especially when it’s uphill first thing. It just burns more with every step and I want to stop but I know if I just keep walking eventually they’ll loosen up. I just have to fight every ounce of my body that wants to just give up.
Today was even more humid that yesterday and it immediately drained us going up the slightest hill. Every view was fogged out so it was just heads down hiking all day. Crossed a 4 lane highway and ate lunch just before starting the “rollercoaster.” An infamous 14 mile stretch of the AT that consists of around 12 several hundred foot climbs back to back.
We made ticking noises, mostly me, up the first hill and pit our hands up going downhill but that was so exhausting i didn’t do it again. I did however play daft punks “One More Time” followed by “Harder Better Faster Stronger” after every climb. Drops, Spencer and suffered through the climbs together stopping at every other water source at the bottom of the hills. I was growing after the first hill but after a few more I was quickly running out of steam only the music kept our spirits up.
Before I knew it we’d arrived at the 1,000 mile marker. I’ve been thinking about this moment for a long time even thinking back to it now I can’t believe we’re already here. I’ve almost cried thinking about what it’s taken to get to this point but when I got there I had no energy left to cry but just savor the moment.
It was a little sad to not have Joey or Steve there. I’m hoping Joe will catch back up to us soon and at the end of the day the miles don’t really matter it’s the the experience of the trail and spending time with good people and we’ll have plenty more of that.
I was just elated and so excited to reach 1,000 I was skipping down the trail and playing celebration, A thousand miles, and I’m gonna be. Drops and I were trying to figure out how to celebrate and after ideas like 1,000 jellybeans or goldfish or shots we landed on counting to 1,000 so we both alternated counting all the way to 1,000. As we quickly counted and dogged rocks I thought of all the miles stones along the way.
100 - reaching Albert firetower with all four of us even with Steve’s broken ankle and taking our first 0 in Franklin, NC with free pancakes and bacon from the church
200 - getting to clingmans done on opening day and getting my first hitch to Gatlinburg, TN where we’d spend 4 nights at the super 8
275-300 - getting to hot springs with our first 26 mile day where they say if we can make it here we have the strength to make it all the way and getting to see Steve again since his injury
400 - passing over roan mountain after getting the best trip magic ever and doing another marathon into town to get one of the best breakfasts ever and see my dad for the first time since I left
470-500 - getting to Damascus, VA! And passing through the Grayson highlands where we played with a little colt and had really nice people hit hitch us into town for burgers
600 - passing the 1/4 marker then getting to spend 3 days at woods hole with Izzy! What and unforgettable time. Just the most amazing place with the nicest people and delicious food
700 - hitting the Virginia triple crown and spending even more time with the bestest friends from Wilmington, soaking up the morning sun, hiking big miles, playing cards and going bowling then passing the 1/3 marker
800 - setting off on my own for the first time since day 1 and reminding myself that I have the confidence to do whatever I can set my mind to while climbing some of the hardest mountains in VA
900 - finally getting to the Shenandoah and spending too much money but having a good time enjoying the bubble of hikers we’re in and having to hike without Joe
1,000 - getting beaten up by the roller coaster but taking advantage of an amazing hostel and just beating out a storm by a matter of minutes
Nothing ever happens the way i expect it to and it makes me so happy that I chose to do this. It’s more than I ever hoped it would be and I can’t believe I’m almost halfway done. I want to stop this train as John Mayer says but you can’t, it keeps going so you better enjoy the ride whatever speed it goes.
We got to the top of our 7th climb and walked up the gravel road to the bears den hostel. It’s a house built in the 1930s out of stone that is now run by the ATC and local PATC trail club. Once we got inside it started down pouring outside, we looked wet but it all sweat. Glen inside got us all setup and showed us around and fern showed us around.
Queen diva made some pull pork sandwiches and potato salad it was sooo good. Then we showered and did laundry and ate a pint of Ben and Jerry’s ice cream while waiting for our frozen pizzas to cook. Spencer and I finished our chess game (I won). Then we played a game of rummikub with clothesline, and duck and Spencer had never played but somehow ended up beating all of us in a few moves.
Day 90: Harper’s Ferry
Thursday, June 6th
Quality Inn
19.9 miles today
1,025.7 miles total
Spencer made blackberry and banana pancakes while I made eggs. We took way too long getting up and out of there this morning. It was around 10:30 when we left. The last 2 miles of the rollercoaster weren’t bad but they left a mark on our way out of Virginia. We finally crossed a state line after 42 days and over 500 miles. We celebrated by playing some John Denver.
Then it started to sprinkle and we saw a dark cloud forming so we hauled down to this Blackburn trail center just off trail to get out of the storm. The caretaker Chris was there and gave us a soda and some cookies while we waited out the storm under the big wrap around screened-in porch. It was a big house in the middle of nowhere, an old doctors retirement home the PATC acquired and now use to house hikers for free. We saw Pete there with his son and a couple other hikers and just as we sat down it started to down pour.
I watched the birds come to the bird feeder under an old oak, goldfinches, catbirds, sparrows, and a mourning dove. Two hours later and we’re still there but finally getting up to leave, I would’ve enjoyed staying there. A little piece of paradise in the middle of nowhere.
The rest of the days hiking was so easy compared to the rollercoaster and the mountains before it. A couple views, a few miles and a lot of deer later we arrived at the shelter. Then we decided to skip the shelter since the water was so far away from it and make dinner before trying to find a tent site. We called clothesline and duck who already made it to Harper’s ferry to see if they saw any camp spots. We kept pushing and got water and decided let’s just go to Harper’s ferry tonight and figure it out from there. On the way clothesline said we could crash in their hotel room if we wanted to, boom problem solved. The only bummer was that when we did get to Harper’s ferry the ATC headquarters wouldn’t be open so we couldn’t get our new number and iconic Polaroid picture. We also decided to get into town tonight so we could catch the morning train to DC which means we won’t make it tomorrow either. But that’s the sacrifice we’re willing to make.
We got to the bridge over the Shenandoah river and it was so surreal to see it in person. I’ve seen it in a lot of peoples vlogs on YouTube, dreaming about the moment I’d make it there myself. And here I am. Lucky.
To exhausted to make food we ordered pizza to the hotel, showered, watched the office and went to bed for an early 5:30am wake up.
Day 91: D.C. In A Day
Friday, June 7th
0 miles today
1,025.7 miles total
Clothesline’s alarm came too soon. The train leaves at 6:53 and it’s a 23 minute walk from the hotel but breakfast isn’t scheduled until 6:30. Duck went down to ask and they let us in early, I drank 4-5 cups of apple juice before scarfing down waffles and rushing out the door. We walked half an hour down the streets of Harper’s ferry as the sun rose and bought tickets online as the train pulled into the station. It was a double decker train that took us an hour forty five down to D.C. We got there fairly early and none of the museums opened until 10 so we went to a cafe called le bon to wait. I got the tropical green smoothie which had a little bit too much green super powder for my liking but otherwise tasted really good. We realized the museums required timed-entry tickets so we picked the ones we wanted to go to and picked random times to go trying to cram them all into the day.
We started at the library to get library cards and walk around. Then we walked across the mall to the new African-American museum which was really cool, there was 4 levels and then 3 more down below the building. There was so much stuff in there I wish I had a whole day to walk around. They had new exhibits on the recent protests as well as past, a whole room dedicated to music and a whole room dedicated to movies and TV. I spent most of my time in the music part looking at Charlie Parker’s saxophone, dizzy Gillespie’s trumpet, Prince’s jacket and more. Before i knew it we had to leave to make it to the air and space museum but found the whole basement section which went through the whole transatlantic slave trade so we went through all that as well before leaving. At air and space we grabbed PB&J's for $9 a piece to just stop our stomaches from grumbling. spence asked for a water cup with no ice and they handed him a cup of ice. i guess thats why they call it the mars cafe.
I meandered through the open exhibits about space and air, more curious about the space but they had a lot of the building closed off to renovations. After that we booked it over to the archives to get a look at the founding documents and make national treasure jokes. Then Spencer and I booked it over to the holocaust museum and spent an hour and forty five going through that. It’s very well organized and thought out. Highly recommend. At the end of our day in D.C. We walked around 12 miles and our feet were killing us.
We stopped at McDonald’s on the way back to the train for a BOGO quarter pounder deal. On the train ride back I didn’t want waste any energy doing or thinking about anything I was so tired. Still hungry we all stopped at a local restaurant, the rabbit role, for dinner on the way back to the hotel. We saw quipdraw, blue moon and giggles there as well they stayed at the hostel across the river. On the way back we walked passed the ATC HQ which we’ll stop by tomorrow morning and take our pictures and get our new numbers based on how many people have made it so far. It was another surreal moment to see that building even though it wasn’t open. I tried to just keep walking and save the emotions for tomorrow.
We finished up the rest of our pizza and watched some more of the office before calling it a night. Lots of people are pushing on trying to do the 4 state challenge where you hike 45 miles in 24 hours and I have no FOMO at all. I’m glad we’re taking the best couple days to rest and recharge. Maybe some day I’ll come back and try it.
Funny that you were listening to music i used to run to . Super proud of you and love your writings . What a trip! Enjoy the moments , even though they Pass quickly they will always be there to drawl upon.
Like the 100-mile summaries, esp. 800; and great cliffhanger as we await the ATC HQ blog entry. Congrats on @50%!