Day 78: Forgive Me Father
Saturday, May 25th
22.3 miles today
843.8 miles total
I had a good sleep but I tried not to make any noise because the only spot I could set up was like 5 feet from Rogi’s tent and it got cold so I had to bundle up in my quilt to keep warm. I definitely enjoy sleeping remotely compared to the shelter and if I’m carrying this hammock I might as well use it. I left about an hour after Rogi did but I was able to play music while I packed up and act a fool not having to worry about disturbing anyone.
The plan was to only do 16 miles so I took it relatively easy. Stopped at spy rock for an incredible 360 view but regret taking my pack with me idk why I didn’t just leave it at the bottom. Nobody was there but me it was nice. There were little puddles with a bunch of tadpoles swimming around up on top.
It started to get hot on the climb to the priest. I made it to the shelter for a lunch break and saw Rogi doing the same and confessing her trail sins in the logbook. Because this shelter is on priest mountain it’s a well known place to anonymously confess your trail sins. For example, I’ve been pretty good but a couple times I slept with my food instead of hanging it or forgot about food in my side pocket, I’ve taken a few dumps without digging a hole and I always leave my toilet paper there, I almost always pee directly off the trail and I’ve told a bunch of kids the view is just around the corner when it’s not. I also read some other peoples confessions that were funny but I feel like you gotta do the climb to the shelter to read them.
While we were there Rogi and I discussed changes of plans to make tomorrow an easier day we’d try and get over the three ridges today instead of camping right before the big climb. I agreed I’d rather get the climbing over with then having to do it tomorrow first thing in the morning while trying to hustle to the brewpub for potential breakfast. We also heard from TMI that there might be trail magic at the bottom of the priest and Rogi is debating hitching into town because she’s running out of food but I have none to give. High noon showed up a little after I did and had lunch there too before I left. I run into some more people at the view for the priest and they give me a bunch of snacks they don’t want. I pass some more day hikers coming up saying they also saw trail magic so I keep booking it down this 5 mile hill only to get to the bottom and see nothing but a bunch of cars and Rogi taking a break also disappointed. I let her take the snacks that she wanted and we kept going but she decided to take a blue blaze around the side of the mountain instead of doing the three ridges.
I would’ve but at this point I’ve committed to doing the AT and I would regret skipping this section. I also thought there’d be some good views up there. I went to the first little river and soaked my feet and ate some of those snacks. Then I thought it would be a brilliant idea to grab my shoes and socks and try to get farther upstream, it was not brilliant it was stupid. I dropped my shoe in the water, soaked in 2 seconds. Before this big climb now I have a soaked shoe. So I try to dry it out while I eat some more and wait. High noon shows up to filter water before the climb and I start putting my shoes back on and I’m sitting over the water because I want them to be clean before I dry them and put my shoes on, right. So I’m trying to get my shoe on and I push so hard my foot with socks and shoe on go fully under water so now both feet are wet, just wonderful. I don’t care anymore, yesterday my feet were wet all day and I was fine, I know I’ll live but it just added more fuel to the fire.
The climbs weren’t terrible but some parts had me gassed with steep climbs and lots of big boulders to walk over. It wasn’t even rewarding. Besides the viewpoint at hanging rock none of the three mountains had a view. There’s also a shit ton of people out here for Memorial Day weekend so I get to the shelter we planned on and it’s so full, tents everywhere. There’s a ridge runner here for the ATC, Easy-e. He’s cool we talked about his hot takes and his experiences overseas. I didn’t see Rogi and high noon was still behind me. I made dinner and saw it was only a mile to the next tent site and less than two to the gap we were gonna hitch to the brewpub but I just didn’t want to hike anymore after 20 some miles and lots of ups. Easy-e told me the pub doesn’t open until 11:30 tomorrow and they didn’t have breakfast today so they might not tomorrow. I still didn’t want to tent around but after some back and forth in my mind I just found a spot off in the woods.
Day 79: Severe Thunderstorm
Sunday, May 26th (Happy Birthday mom)
12.1 miles today
855.9 miles total
I woke up and it sounded like everyone in the campsite had left but when I finally rolled out of my hammock at like 8:30 and made breakfast in camp there were still some people there. I took my time this morning because the brewery didn’t open until 11:30 and I wasn’t going far anyway. When I did make it to Reid’s gap there was trail magic! So I didn’t even have to go to the pub they had burgers and beer and breakfast too. So I hung out there for awhile talking to Camper, Chitchat, and Dinner bell about their experiences on the trail. There were some day hikers that passed through and one other thru hiker but beyond that it was pretty much just me.
Just after noon I left to start hiking again and got to the next overlook a few miles in and these people said there was a couple just farther down with trail magic. So I stopped at this overlook for a moment then went to the next and sure enough there was a couple there listening to music with drinks, homemade blueberry muffins and oranges! Not to mention they parked at an incredible view over the valley at cedar cliffs. I stopped there for another couple hours and talked with them.
Eventually some more hikers showed up and I didn’t recognize the girl at first but she said her name was Martian Mcfly and I remembered. I met her at blue mountain shelter in Georgia the night before we hiked down to unicoi gap to stay at the green dragon hostel. I haven’t seen her since that day, that was mile 50! She said she’s being hiking with the English girl Grace, who now goes by little foot, redmaple, peanut butter giant and squeeze cheese. All of whom I met that day as well and they’re still out here.
It’s just weird the stats you hear about how many people quit but I still feel like I see so many people that I recognize from the beginning.
I kept on hiking and saw a couple more views and filled up on water before checking out this tent site. I was debating on whether I should setup here or keep hiking to the next overlook I heard was a good spot or the shelter. I got a message from the guys that a big storm was coming through that might call for hail. I double checked the weather and sure enough it said severe weather stetting at 8 and it was 7:15. So I setup camp quick and one guy came to join then I saw DC and Squrriel pass by and it was still nice out but I told them the weather was gonna get real bad so they stayed here too. As I made dinner under my tarp and watched them setup the sky got really dark and the wind picked up and it started thundering. Just before 8 it started pouring, thundering, and lightning and they’d just finished setting up their camp and I was getting wet. I scarfed down my dinner while DC used my battery bank to charge his vape and when I finished packing I jumped into my hammock and changed into dry clothes. There was already a puddle under my tent and water gushing down my rain fly in a matter of minutes. Then Martian and her partner showed up and setup here as well.
Then at like 9:20 some more hikers with super bright lights decided to make themselves at home here too. So now it’s a party and the rain won’t stop all night. At least we’re getting into town tomorrow morning, I heard they have a chipotle!
Day 80: Quick Hitch
Monday, May 27th (Memorial Day)
8.7 miles today
864.6 miles total
Those people were talking all night and it rained and thundered for a while but not too long. It seemed to die down though and I was able to fall asleep eventually. I woke up just before my watch alarm was set to go off at six. The wind was ripping through all night and into the morning so most of my stuff was dry but there was still dirt and mud everywhere. I just shoved my stuff into my bag and scarfed down a breakfast quick before I left with DC and Squirrels into town.
It was a fairly quick hike down into town with only one blown down tree to cross. When we did make it to the gap we took our packs off and sat down this yellow truck pulled up and said “you going to town? Get in” so we did. He was an older gentleman who was very direct and had no filter of any kind. We tried to direct him to the chipotle but he didn’t know what that was and it was also outside of town so we had him drop us off at the free campground.
There we decided to just walk to the motel because there was some weird people at the campground. We were going to meet squirrels’ sister tiny tank there so we could shower before getting food but we decided to just get our own room too. The quality inn wasn’t a bad place to stay for the price especially on Memorial Day but the room did have a twinge of cigarette smell to it.
DC and I walked the half mile down to Burger King while squirrels door dashed chipotle to the hotel room. I finished my burgers and got to shower then do laundry for the first time in a week. My clothes were smelling rancid. I could smell it the last couples days especially bad. I started working on my burrito bowl while we drank margaritas and watched tv. Half and half and tiny tank hung out with us and went to the Walmart to resupply and get little ceasers for dinner (I also got another order at Burger King). We ate the pizza while shopping for resupply at Walmart and I bought way too much food for only a few days. But I did buy food to make walkin tacos and it might be the best decision I ever made. We all finished resupplying and didn’t see squirrels so we thought she was still inside. We sent DC in to look for her and tiny tank got a garmin message that she was back at the hotel because she didn’t have her phone either.
Back at the hotel we saw cowboy, flop and patty melt hanging out by the pool so we all hung out there for awhile before we called in for bed. By this point I was feeling more and more congested and I woke up several times throughout the night to blow my nose, I can’t wait for this to go away. I blame squirrels.
Day 81: Mafia
Tuesday, May 28th
7.7 miles today
872.3 miles total
Breakfast was great even though I didn’t put enough batter into the waffle maker I still enjoyed them. I really liked the mini muffins and biscuits. I’d recommend the quality inn to any hiker, I was not going to pay $40 for a bunk at stanimals hostel, no way no how. We took it very slow this morning and I wasn’t in a rush especially if we were only doing like 8 miles.
After breakfast we kind of just hung around the hotel, walked down to get more pizza for lunch and hung around some more. None of us were really feeling like getting back on trail but deep down we already made that decision. I’ll have to say I forgot how good little Caesar’s was. It was so hot sitting outside the motel and it didn’t help us move any faster but DC called some of the local trail angels and one of them offered us a ride and we signed his log book on the way back to rockfish gap.
There we saw high noon who’d been there since like 9:30 with drops, rooster, spreadsheet at the popcorn stand. We ended up hanging around there for a few more hours before leaving at 2pm. The hike out of there into the Shenandoah was a little steep in some parts but nothing crazy. Last week was just ridiculous with the thousands of ft climbs every day. I’m really looking forward to this section which is supposed to be easier. I passed drops on the way up and way down the trail I saw some flashy colors and an orange shirt. At second glance I realized it was style and nightwatch! I ran up to them and surprised them. It was good to see them again, we caught up with each other along the way to the shelter.
At the shelter we saw clothesline and duck and a few section hikers, dragonfly, and mama and papa thunder. Luckily I got to the shelter just in time to use the privy and setup my hammock before everyone else started rolling in. We all had dinner(s) and all watched people try to use the heavy pole to hang the food bag on the bear pole. It’s a big pole with a circle of hooks about 15 ft off the ground to hang your food (the Shenandoah are known for bears). It’s funny though because the ridge runner told me bears could easily get the food so idk why they don’t have cables or a bear box, that would be way more secure.
I met lost boy and he gave me a hot dog to roast over the fire, well a couple because I dropped the first one in the fire. Then we all gathered around the picnic table to play Mafia. Duck and I were the mafia and we murdered everyone and won the game.
There’s not a lot of options for campsites coming up so it might be a 13,16 or 26 mile day. And I really don’t wanna do 26.
Day 82: Blackberry Milkshake
Wednesday, May 29th
23 miles today
895.3 miles total
In actuality with all the miles on and off trail today we did closer to 25 miles today. I walked alone for a bit this morning and kind of leapfrogging with clothesline and duck. There was a bit of a water carry this morning like 12 miles or so but at one of their gaps there was some trail volunteers who left their car unlocked and a little cardboard sign saying we could grab drinks out of the cooler inside. A lot of Diet Dr. pepper and some mt. Dew and beer, i took a mt. Dew. Right after that I saw a huge black snake sun bathing in the grass and a couple more after that. I also met the volunteers a mile down the trail weed whacking the grass and thanked them for their work and magic. This is your reminder to give back to the world, volunteer your time or do something nice for someone.
I got 12 miles in to the next shelter by noon and had a lunch there. We met this guys idk how to pronounce his name but it’s after a Japanese viper, he was a south bounder. At first it was just me clothesline and duck and soon everyone else showed up. It was a long lunch for us probably 2hrs. I still didn’t want to do 26 miles but the Shenandoah really doesn’t have a lot of climbing or steep grades. There was a really cool rock scramble up to a great view where we hung out for a moment where I told the guys we should just go to the cliffs 8 miles down the trail it says there’s some camp spots in the comments. I also told squirrels and tiny tank it might be a cool spot as well.
Down the trail some more we ran into another guy going south drinking a beer, his name was John, he said there was just a bunch of beers next to this tree. Sure enough by the next gal there was some NA beers and one alcoholic beer. We took the NA beers and left the other and Squirrels got to it first.
We weren’t going to make it in time before the store closed but the wayside 0.6 and steeply off trail wouldn’t close until 7. So we booed it over there and down the mountain which was near our project campsite anyway. It felt like forever getting to down there and when we did we saw that squirrels, TT, half n half, rooster, spreadsheets and lost boy were already there. They didn’t pass us on trail but must’ve blue blazed. The food was okay but super expensive. It was so greasy that getting back up the mountain we probably walked the slowest we’ve ever walked.
At the top the others took all our campsites so we had no room to stay up there with the good views so we had to keep walking. The view point .5 away didn’t have any hammock spots so we kept going. The first spring was a no camping zone and had no hammock spots. We made the gamble and checked the next spring, one spot looked promising but not good enough and finally we found one more spot that could fit all three of us. It’s a little tight but it’ll work and it’s right by a stream. My bear bag is definitely not high enough but I don’t care at this pint I just want to lay down. We also heard from duck that captain blogger (the one blogging for thetrek.com is off trail for good). A little saddening hearing yet another person get off trail.
Day 83: Elkton, VA
Thursday, May 30th
14.8 miles today
910.1 miles total
Last night I slept fanatic, the last couple nights it’s gotten a little cooler at night and it’s been so nice to sleep in. I haven’t been all that impressed with the Shenandoah as far as hiking goes. When we cross the road at the over looks the views have been beautiful but beyond that the trail hasn’t been anything special. A part of me is okay with that though. I like hiking, staring at the ground and letting my mind think about nothing. Not worrying about anything besides when I’ll eat or drink or lay down. It’s a simple life and it’s been easier than ever to just go with the flow of things. There’s no need to worry because it’s not going to change the outcome if it’s something out of my control.
We crossed 900 miles today and each time we get here it’s like okay let’s take a picture, woo hoo, and we keep going. I still can’t wrap my head around the fact that I’ve walked 900 miles. It is surreal that we’re getting close to 1,000, which will be almost halfway.
We stopped at a parking lot for a little lunch before the biggest climb for the day. Why we sat down on the road in the sun and didn’t walk a little farther to sit in the shade I don’t know. Sometimes we get tunnel vision and if we want to sit down and eat then we don’t care where it is.
The “big climb” went by so quick that was one of the fastest miles ever. I feel like that .6 back up the mountain from the wayside was harder than the 2 miles up a couple thousand feet. We filled up at a spring at the top and saw high noon hiking with her friend. The rest of the hike was a breeze downhill to swift run gap. By coincidence the local shuttle driver, Wayne, was driving by and picked us up. We got a room at a lodge and then he took us downtown to eat. I got a delicious Hawaiian burger with pineapple and jalapeño then a meh McDonald’s burger. We walked down to the local brewery and got these really good ginger kombuchas while I played Spencer in chess. We didn’t get to finish but j feel like I was winning for sure. I took a picture of the board so we could finish another time.
Back at the room we rested, showered and did laundry. Getting back into civilization is such a rush. I feel like my money just disappears and there’s so many things happening at once. I wish I didn’t have a phone that let me see all the things I’m missing out on. It’s much easier to just sit at a good view with good people. Sometimes I wonder if the brain is ever really satisfied. But I realized I mostly feel that way when my phone has service or I’m in town. When I’m out there it doesn’t matter.
Tell me, what else should I have done?
Doesn't everything die at last, and too soon?
Tell me, what is it you plan to do
with your one wild and precious life?
—Mary Oliver
Day 84: Big Meadows Party
Friday, May 31st
17.3 miles today
927.4 miles total
It was hard to watch Joe struggle with his back pain yesterday and this morning didn’t look any better. Spencer recommended he go to urgent care unsure of exactly what they’d diagnose. Wayne the shuttle driver showed up on time and was super patient with us being late this morning. I had to go up and down the stairs as a messenger between him and Joe about what he wanted to do. He ended up coming with us to get breakfast sandwiches then the trailhead to say goodbye. It wasn’t easy for any of us especially him, it doesn’t seem fair.
We kept hiking just trying to figure out what the problem could be or what would’ve caused it but we might not know for sure. The Shenandoahs continued to be nothing special besides the fact that the trail is pretty well maintained.
We dropped our packs off to go explore this blue blaze to a rock scramble with gorgeous 360 views. High noon told me it was some of the best views in the whole park and so far I agree. A lot of the views have been more or less the same view off to the west towards West Virginia but this one we could at least see all around. After we had a little bit of a climb up to hazel top mountain then it was basically flat down towards the next wayside. We ran into bubbles by a water source and she hiked with us for a little bit until we got to the road crossing for the wayside. We debated whether we should go to the wayside or to the lodge (which was closer but had more expensive food). We went to the wayside. So many people were there, tiny tank, half and half, squirrels, lost boy had all been there for 5 hours drinking wine from the store and it showed. We got burgers and milkshakes again and watched everyone else behind us show up until there was probably 20ish thru-hikers there. We hung out there until 8 when the wayside closed then moved the party over to the lodge where they had a taproom downstairs and had margaritas until the sunset. The back deck had a really good view of the sunset and I hung out there with high noon, DC and Squirrels for a bit. Sometime around 10 we get out of there and find a stealth spot to camp about 12 of us in one spot. We don’t even put up our rain flies and they all hang out around Spencer and I’s camp until midnight.
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